Posts tagged Layers

Shop Talk: Think in layers

Add Adjustment Layers to the long stack of reasons why Adobe Photoshop is my go-to image editing software.   Most photographers are used to the idea of adjusting their images using tools like Curves, Levels and Brightness/Contrast.  You can directly adjust your images in a variety of ways using these tools.

Next time, use the Adjustment Layer versions of these tools (Layers–>Adjustment Layers).   In doing so, you apply these imaging changes not directly onto the surface of the base image, but on a layer sitting atop that base (or, background layer).  This provides protection to the original image, since you’re not altering the image itself.

The best part is that you can build layer on top of layer as you fine-tune your image.  When it’s all done and looks like you want it, you can then flatten it into one file and save that file.   One hint:  it’s a good idea to save a version of both your layered file–so that you can return to it and tweak individual layers later if needed–and the original file (because it’s good practice to always keep the unaltered original file).

There’s one other advantage to using Adjustment Layers:  the ability to use your brushes to add and deduct your adjustments to highly-defined areas of your image.   Here’s how that works.    After you’ve made a new Adjustment Layer (say, Curves),  given the layer a name and then done the adjustment, you’ll probably find that the adjustment you just made looks great for one portion of the image but not another.  If, for example, you’ve lightened the entire image but now find areas of the subject’s face are too light, it’s simple to fix.   Just go to the Photoshop Toolbar and go down to the bottom, where there are two colored, overlapping boxes used for setting foreground and background colors.  Make sure they show one black square and one white square.  If they don’t click the small black and white box icons above them.  Then select the black box by clicking the double-arrow icon between the squares until the black box is above the white box.   Next, go to the paintbrush icon in the toolbox.   Make sure the diameter of the tool is appropriate for the area you are going to paint–in this case, the areas of the face you want to darken.   Then click the mouse while holding the brush over these areas.   You’ll see them getting brighter.   What’s happening is that the black brush is selectively removing the adjustment you made earlier.   To add it back, click the arrow in the toolbar so that the white box is now on top, or selected.   Now paint again over the same area, and it will darken.

Once you get the hang of it, adjust the size and opacity of the brush in order to add or remove adjustments you’ve made from select portions of the image.   If you’re not good at staying in the lines, you can always go back and forth (black box and white box) in order to fine-tune things.

With a little practice, you’ll quickly become a fan of the Adjustment Layers -toolbrush combo.   If you haven’t been doing it, it’ll save you time and frustration–and will result in better image adjustments.   So remember–think in layers.

Original image with Adjustment Layer dialog box open
Image with Curves Adjustment Layer-the model's face on the right is too bright.
The final photo, pre-flattening, showing both Adjustment Layers in the Layers palette

Shop Talk: Using Adjustment Layers

With Photoshop, it’s easy to go overboard and end up with the equivalent of what we used to call the Hand of God effect.    Any change made to an image alters the bits that make up the file and cannot be reversed once done.

That’s why I love Photoshop’s nondestructive imaging capability using Adjustment Layers.  The idea is that when you make changes to an image, you do so on a separate layer.  This means you don’t make changes to the underlying image file (the background layer) at all, and thus don’t damage the original.  Once you’ve got the file where you want it, you flatten it and make all the changes all at once.

Adjustment layers are a great idea, and are easy to use.  With an image open, go to Layers–> Adjustment Layers.   You’ll have the option to choose tools such as  curves, levels, exposure etc.  When you select a tool and name the layer, you can make changes with the tool that appear to change your image (below).


The change is really only being applied to the adjustment layer, which you can see in your Layers palette.  If one portion of the photo is too bright and I want to darken it, as in my example below, I make the entire photo darker using Curves.

Then I make sure the black square at the bottom of the tool box is set as foreground color (click the two-headed arrow to move the black box above the white one as shown below), and I select the paintbrush tool .  Now when I paint areas of the photo with the brush, I’m actually telling it to remove the darkness I’ve just added to that portion of the image.  In my example, I only want the sky and background to be darker–not the girl.  So I carefully paint around her, varying the brush size and opacity to feather in the changes so they look natural.

If you mistakenly take away too much with the paintbrush, or wander over areas of the image you don’t intend to, you can use the Undo (command + Z) tool to undo the change, or–and this is why I like Adjustment Layers so much–you can add the change back.  You do this by going to the bottom of the toolbar and making the white box set as the foreground color.  This now means that whichever area you paint, you are adding back the changes you made to the adjustment layer (in this case, adding the darkness I applied in step one).  So by alternating the additive (white) and subtractive (black) versions of the paintbrush, I can really craft my adjustments.

There’s no limit to the number of Adjustment Layers you can layer, one on top of the other.  If you don’t like what’s going on with one of your layers, you can always drag that layer (in the layers dialog box) into the trash can and deleting it.

When you’re all done, it’s a good idea to save the entire file as a “master” version of the image–either as a .psd or a .tiff–preserving all the individual layers as they are.   Then, flatten the whole thing to produce your final usable file.  Once you incorporate Adjustment Layers into your workflow, you’ll save time and have better results.

Original image, left and final image after flattening.